The House’s first fragrance, Miss Dior has never ceased to be born anew, reflecting the audacity and grace of eternal youth. A conversation with Francis Kurkdjian, Perfume Creation Director, who here signs a fascinating reinvention. By Marie Audran.
“Miss Dior was born of those evenings in Provence filled with fireflies, with green jasmine as a counterpoint to the melody of night and the Earth.”
| MA: There’s a famous line from The Leopard2, which reflects that alignment: “Everything must change so that nothing changes”… FK: Miss Dior symbolizes exactly that fusion: the homage to the House, and the rhythm of reinterpretation, like the New Look silhouette twirling in a Richard Avedon3 photo. That dancing silhouette says it all about the “movement of life” as Monsieur Dior said, and also magnificently evokes the corolla4 of star jasmine from Grasse, whose underside is pink, like the flower bud and Miss Dior’s signature colour. FK: It’s a mental construct, unlike a floral bouquet or an oriental amber, which are more concrete. The abstraction of the “chypre” narrative takes perfumery into a complex artistic dimension that is, in my opinion, unique to the refinement of French perfumery. FK: All those captivating archives (re)confirmed that Dior was – truly – the only House to have launched a fragrance and couture collections in the same year. Miss Dior was first sprayed in the Salons of 30 Montaigne in 1947, as fashion’s revival triumphed, heralding a marvellously reborn femininity. |