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© PIETER HUGO

Cool cats: HYLTON NEL

For the Dior Summer 2025 collection, Kim Jones dreamed up pieces inspired by the creative universe of ceramist Hylton Nel. Tancrède Bonora explores a pluralistic ode to craftsmanship and artisanal savoir-faire. 

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© Pieter Hugo

A small house with ochre yellow walls sits nestled in the heart of the South African desert, a six-hour drive from Cape Town. This cozy little cottage serves as Hylton Nel’s studio. A cabinet of curiosities brimming with colourful characters and black-and-white family portraits. Kim Jones came here, to Klein Karoo, to meet the artist amidst the countless wooden sculptures gleaned in his travels. Fascinated by Hylton Nel’s singular inventiveness and an avid collector of works from the Omega Workshops at Bloomsbury, the Artistic Director of Dior’s men’s lines initiated a unique creative dialogue blending couture and ceramics.

Back to Paris. At the Dior Summer 2025 men’s show, Hylton Nel’s touch was everywhere. On the catwalk, models walked beneath the astonished gaze of emblematic XXL ceramic cats. It was grandiose. Majestic. Leonine. The scene instantly plunged guests into a dreamlike atmosphere of surrealism, curled up in cottony reverie. The line’s sleek, sculptural cuts and curves merged harmoniously with the shimmering contours and vibrant hues of those gigantic creatures.

Culture - Portrait - Hylton Nel
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Culture - Portrait - Hylton Nel
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© Melinda Triana @hyltonnel  @stevenson_za

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© Pieter Hugo

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© Pieter Hugo

Born in Zambia in 1941, Hylton Nel spent his childhood on a farm surrounded by animals, one of his recurring motifs. After studying fine art in Grahamstown, he moved to England, where he worked in a small antiques shop. Since then, all his creations – plates, bowls, figurative objects – seem to spring from a youth spent among knick-knacks.

In 1970, the low, heavy English skies made him want to return to South Africa. He taught pottery and then drawing to his students. But in the early 1990s, he decided to dedicate his practice entirely to ceramics. He began to tap into a wide range of inspirations, from erotic paintings on ancient Greek vases to depictions of cats in Egyptian art and the expressions on African masks. In his hands, pottery becomes poetry.

Beguilingly, the lover of ceramics also has a little quirk: each one of his works is dated precisely – the year, the month, the day. Those dates, like biographical markers, shed light on his sensibility in the moment: “These plates are all I have to say.” In Paris, a figurine punctuating the décor at the Dior show read “An elegant life”. In other words, the cat’s meow.

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