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The Essence of Miss Dior

Swathed in elegance and infused with captivating accords, the new Miss Dior Essence embodies the quintessence of the Dior art of perfumery. An audacious renaissance: a manifesto. By Antonia Map.

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*Catherine, Christian Dior’s beloved sister, had been nicknamed “Miss Dior” by Mizza Bricard, the founding couturier’s second muse and inspiring caryatid.

How do you reinvent an icon? How do you revisit the trail of a historic fragrance that Christian Dior himself launched in 1947, shortly after his inaugural collection, and named after his adored sister, Catherine*? Rising to the challenge, Francis Kurkdjian, Creative Director of Parfums Christian Dior, honours with brio a Miss so celebrated that she might have become intimidating. The perfumer thus imagined a Pop statement intensely dedicated to audacious youth and femininity, like an antidote to the blues.

And what a composition! While the jasmine heart stays true to the original, this new version reveals itself like a gesture of stunning intensity, in an unprecedented concentration for Miss Dior. Sambac jasmine unfolds with wild luxuriance, while the base is shaded with a darker sensuality thanks to the grace of oak wood. Decidedly gourmand top notes mix syrupy blackberry jam with elderflower. With this explosive elixir, Essence boldly asserts itself as an ultra-contemporary olfactory manifesto.

But let’s go back to 1947, when Miss Dior made its debut. On a freezing February 12th, the mansion at 30 Avenue Montaigne welcomed a collection that not only set a trend – the New Look, so named for the enthusiastic exclamation of the American journalist Carmel Snow – but also truly revolutionized women’s postwar wardrobes. And although the fragrance was not yet completely finished (it would not launch officially until December of that year), the petites mains discreetly spritzed it throughout the House’s iconic salons, where fashion editors from the most prestigious magazines would take their places on Monsieur Dior’s beloved medallion chairs. Did the perfume take hold like an enchanting philter? One can only imagine…

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One thing is certain: Christian Dior’s ambitions for it were matched only by his boundless affection for Catherine, his muse, who was also a great heroine of the Resistance.

This inaugural opus had to “feel like love”, he said, while also capturing the couturier’s creative spirit. Like Proust and his madeleine, Monsieur Dior knew better than anyone the evocative power of scent, having been introduced to the secrets of flowers in the rose garden at the villa Les Rhumbs in Granville, Normandy. A marvellous Eden that his mother had so beautifully created, despite the harsh winds of the English Channel.

A dream garden, designed by a woman named Madeleine like a charmed echo of In Search of Lost Time. The appeal of Miss Dior was only enhanced by its first flacon, a silhouette “tailored like a suit” with a bow recalling its couture origins.

The 2025 version pays homage to the original in an even more exclusive variation: the bow is in black grosgrain, the cap is in glass, and the four sides are elegantly engraved with the House’s cherished houndstooth motif. Who better than Natalie Portman, Dior’s stunning ambassador, to bring a dash of impertinence to Miss Dior Essence? In a campaign shot in the most captivating places in Paris, the actress expresses all the audacity and modernity of this new Miss. Wearing a zipped corset and high boots, our heroine breezes through the City of Light, a totally free spirit with a rebellious, ultra-feminine aura. This is how Francis Kurkdjian – who, like Christian Dior, is enamoured of women and their magnetic energy – envisions it: “My Miss Dior Essence is the olfactory mirror of confident femininity, a hyper-colourful, woody, sensual nectar that melts right into the skin.”

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An Irresistible Miss, from Perfume to Makeup

Miss Dior is eternal. The sign of a legend. The kind that leads a thousand lives. Having christened the first perfume by Christian Dior, launched in 1947, it would lend its name, 20 years later, to the House’s very first ready-to-wear collection, launched just months before the liberating revolutions of the Sixties. Echoing that pioneering spirit, Maria Grazia Chiuri wished to bring Miss Dior back to life in the Dior autumn-winter 2024-2025 women’s ready-to-wear collection. Like graffiti handwritten in capital letters, “MISS DIOR” was emblazoned on sweaters and jackets, serving as both slogan and manifesto. Now, Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director of Dior Makeup, pays tribute in turn to the incomparable Miss with a new makeup line. Its spirit is audacious – inherently vibrant and, of course, infinitely elegant. Alternating corals, plums, pinks and browns, these Miss Dior creations are true beauty icons, enhancing cheeks’ radiance, brightening eyelids, illuminating smiles and promising today’s women an ultra-modern touch that is more irresistible than ever.

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