Miss Dior: 
The inspiration

An essence-as-manifesto launched in 1947, in tandem with the show that revealed the triumphant New Look, Miss Dior1 was Dior’s original muse. This summer, from June 16th to July 15th, the immersive exhibition Miss Dior, Stories of a Miss unfurled a prodigious tale like a pink thread, right in the heart of the Roppongi Museum in Tokyo.

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MISS DIOR HOUSE
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© Daniel Darmon © INFAS

An irresistible alchemy between art, couture and fragrance, the retrospective Miss Dior, Stories of a Miss was orchestrated – not unlike an intense elixir – in several chords retracing the complexity of that iconic fragrance, which has also lent its name to enchanting, equally emblematic dresses. It unfolded like a luminous Provençal landscape. In the heart notes, of course, lives a love as fervent as it is mutual between Monsieur Dior and the world of art. Many talents have applied their genius to interpreting this cult scent, first among them René Gruau, who signed brilliant campaigns with instantly recognizable brushstrokes for three decades. Lending itself to multiple metamorphoses, this eternal muse has been revisited again and again, notably by superbly inspired female artists. For more than 70 years, Miss Dior has been imbued with the Dior spirit of beauty, which visitors now could (re)discover and explore.

Like a marvellous Ariadne’s thread, the bottle’s ribbon extended from room to room, wending its way between symbolic looks, archival documents and contemporary works of art, such as a photograph by Brigitte Niedermair and sculptures by the Dutch designer Sabine Marcelis. The embodiment of Dior excellence, this couture trimming led visitors through a dreamlike décor in delicate shades of pink, “the softest of colours”2 as the founding couturier called it. Evoking reminiscences both tender and powerful, a selection of Miss Dior silhouettes was displayed, from a model made by Christian Dior for his Trompe-l’œil line in 1949 to six dazzling gowns that have been worn by Natalie Portman.

1This emblematic fragrance pays tribute to the founding couturier’s sister, Catherine Dior, whom the divine and feline Mizza Bricard nicknamed “Miss Dior”.

2From The Little Dictionary of Fashion by Christian Dior, Cassell & Company, London, 1954. It was translated into French in 2007 to supplement the catalogue Dior: 60 Années Hautes en Couleurs.

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© Daici Ano

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© Daici Ano

This original exhibition was designed by Shohei Shigematsu, partner of globally renowned architectural firm OMA, with whom Dior here collaborated for the fourth time. For the occasion, the Japanese-born designer blended the culture of his homeland and Dior elegance with incredible subtlety, through the use of organic shapes and volumes.

Echoing Monsieur Dior’s passion for the Land of the Rising Sun, the captivating, perpetually reinterpreted story of Miss Dior was relayed through exceptional creations by Japanese artists including Haruka Kojin and Yukimasa Ida, who collaborated with the House previously for the Dior Lady Art project and Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. Printed on large mirrors, two photographs by Yuriko Takagi played on spellbinding effects of shadows and flou, celebrating Dior style with infinite poetry. As a final surprise, this extraordinary odyssey was punctuated by Rainbow, a vibrant painting by the Japanese artist Etsu Egami.

Poised between fascinations with culture and nature, this thrilling adventure continued in the Chambre de Soie – an ode to Virginia Woolf – designed by Eva Jospin, where the new Pièce d’Exception Miss Dior was revealed like a sumptuous jewel. In these precious, prodigious dialogues, female empowerment radiates, (re)awakening the original aura of Miss Dior.

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© Daici Ano

Dior and Japan: An Irresistible Attraction

Sharing a taste for the avant-garde as well as tradition, the House has always woven sincere ties with Japan. From childhood, Christian Dior regarded the country with fascination: he constantly expressed his admiration through his designs, and he soon developed a unique bond with the Land of the Rising Sun. Season after season, he summoned its influences in silhouettes with names like Jardin Japonais, Utamaro, Tokyo and Rashomon.

That enthusiasm lived on thanks to his various successors, from Marc Bohan to Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones. This abiding attraction also has been expressed through unprecedented events such as The World of John Galliano & Tadao Ando – the very first Dior exhibition unveiled in the country, at the Kobe Fashion Museum, in 1999 – or the retrospective Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, which took place from December 2022 to May 2023, at MOT, the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo. An eternal dream of escape.

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© Daici Ano

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