11487-12_R3

©Angela SUÁREZ

DIOR AND SPAIN: A RADIANT PASSION

FROM CHRISTIAN DIOR TO MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI, SPAIN AND ITS MULTIFACETED HERITAGE ARE AN ENDLESS SOURCE OF INSPIRATION. LUCIE ALEXANDRE RECOUNTS AN ARDENT CREATIVE FRIENDSHIP.

DIOR_CRUISE23_D_111
040509094104-25

Tatiana Usova Inspired by Velázquez design, Autumn-Winter 2007 Haute Couture collection, Le Bal des artistes. Christian Dior by John Galliano. © Guy Marineau.

Season after season, Dior women’s collections designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri highlight the connections between savoir-faire in different cultures. The symbolic credo “Dior around the world” coincided with Monsieur Dior’s project to design fashion that was open to the world and could traverse continents. That same vision guides the Creative Director in her quest to explore the links between places and technical knowledge. For the Dior Cruise 2023 show, Spain offered a new site in this enchanted itinerary, bridging spaces and communities through the combined prism of couture and creation. With his autumn-winter 1948 collection, Monsieur Dior expressed his fascination for the country by dreaming up a dress he named Pampelune. Many others would follow, infused with the memory of places he had visited – such as Andorre, Madrid and Barcelone – or celebrating an exceptional festive and religious heritage, with Pâques à Séville, Fête à Grenade and Bal à Séville.

015

Yves Saint Laurent in Madrid, for the presentation of the Spring-Summer 1959 Haute Couture collection at the Palacio de Liria and the Prado museum, 1959. Dior Heritage collection, Paris. All rights reserved.

084

Presentation of the Spring-Summer 1967 Haute Couture collection at the French Embassy in Madrid, in the presence of Marc Bohan, April 1967. Dior Heritage collection, All rights reserved.

In 1955, he reaffirmed his attachment to Spain by unveiling his spring-summer haute couture line at the French embassy in Madrid. That same year, he also visited Barcelona, according to a private diary kept by his friend and close collaborator, Suzanne Luling.

A few years later, in 1959, Yves Saint Laurent, then the Creative Director of the House, attended a presentation of his collection for Dior in the prestigious galleries of the Prado museum in Madrid, while later, in 1967, Marc Bohan crisscrossed the country, from the capital to Toledo, with his models in tow. Iconic images of the day would nurture these fruitful dialogues even more.

In 2007, John Galliano drew on his own origins for his Bal des Artistes. He revealed, in the heart of the Orangerie at the Palace of Versailles, a dazzling gallery of portraits echoing ones by the great masters of painting. Spain took pride of place, with references to El Greco, Velázquez, Zurbarán, Goya and Ignacio Zuloaga. In a veritable ode to the unique essence of Spanish festivities, an enchanting flamenco troupe accompanied the designer as he saluted the audience wearing a toreador costume.

Presented in Seville, in the heart of the majestic Plaza de España – built for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 to display the many facets of Spanish culture – the Dior Cruise 2023 show paid homage to ferias. A grandiose monument blending neo-Moorish and neo-Mudéjar styles that sumptuously summarizes the aesthetic fusion that characterizes Seville. This singular setting, like the Cruise line, thus celebrates artistic encounters and collective performances, expressions of a sense of sharing and osmosis. Bringing together the art of dance and equestrian tradition, the show underscored a common process, a collaborative energy in which rhythm, precision and the beauty of the gesture give rise to a spectacle.

118

Photograph taken during the trip for the Spring-Summer  1967 Haute Couture collection, presented at the French Embassy in Madrid in April 1967. Dior Heritage collection, All rights reserved.

“Seville is a gateway to the world and knows how to welcome it.”

– Maria Grazia Chiuri

_AG17890

© Alessandro Garofalo

DIOR_CRUISE23_V_068

Exploring the notion of “divine femininity” is fundamental to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s work. Each collection is an occasion to explore how each era, country or culture has appropriated that representation. From the goddesses of Antiquity to seventeenth-century Baroque sculptures by Luisa Roldán, also known as La Roldana – a little-known figure in Sevillian art – by way of powerful and diverse demonstrations of femininity by Pedro Almodóvar, the Dior Cruise 2023 show displayed a pluralistic idea of Spanish women. Incarnations of the cult of the Virgin Mary, like the Madonna Macarena, linked seventeenth-century religious fervour to more recent Pop culture phenomena.

083

Presentation of the Spring-Summer 1967 Haute Couture collection at the French Embassy in Madrid, April 1967. Dior Heritage collection, All rights reserved.

DIOR_CRUISE23_V_019

Made using a Chinese embroidery technique, the Manila shawl, an accessory of diverse influences – imported from the Philippines to Seville in the seventeenth century – and a vital element in Spanish folklore, was reinvented in this collection, as was the mantilla, a lace veil that is an icon of Sevillian fashion. These different reinterpretations illustrated Maria Grazia Chiuri’s wish to celebrate the richness of artisanal craftsmanship, like an ode to elegance poised between heritage and modernity. For the occasion, she worked in close collaboration with various local workshops specializing in virtuoso savoir-faire, among them the fan* maker Abanicos Carbonell and the embroiderer Jesús Rosado. A chanson de geste(s). A poetic invitation to escape and to pursue eternal dreams of travel.

* The fan was brought by the earliest sailors and adventurers coming from China to Spain, where it took root in the attitude and gestures of Sevillian women.

_AG18018

© Alessandro Garofalo

 / 
00:00
11487-12_R3
DIOR_CRUISE23_D_111
040509094104-25
015
084
118
_AG17890
DIOR_CRUISE23_V_068
083
DIOR_CRUISE23_V_019
_AG18018