Velvet
Couture

For Maria Grazia Chiuri, every show is an opportunity to explore new forms of expression through clothing, to reflect on its role as a vehicle for transformation and self-affirmation. For autumn-winter 2025-2026, the Creative Director of women’s collections wished to explore the memories and gestures of Dior’s heritage by weaving a multifaceted conversation with fashion history. Meticulously conceived silhouettes reflected the passage of time and the codes and symbols of each era.

A contemporary wardrobe transformed into a repertoire of possibilities between past, present and future. Shirts opted for transparency, hyper-structured coats hugged the body’s curves, shoulders were rounded, collars became removable, masculine jackets paired with feminine bustiers… In an interplay of contrast and audacity, each outfit showcased exceptional, unique savoir-faire that redefined the boundaries of couture.

A fusion of excellence spanning tradition and innovation, the fabrics in this collection reinvented the very essence of material through metallic jacquards, all-over embroidery, revisited lace and guipure... and velvet jacquard. An array that echoed the words of Christian Dior: “Fabric is the only vehicle for our dreams, and it is the engine of ideas. It can be the point of departure for inspiration. Plenty of dresses are born from that alone.”^*

A luxurious fabric with countless shimmering reflections, velvet became, over the centuries, a symbol of wealth and power. It is distinctive for the short, dense pile of its surface, obtained by creating tufted threads that stand perpendicular to the weft. Technically, velvet is a weave made using a specific technique consisting of two thicknesses woven simultaneously and connected by threads that, once cut, create a plush texture which can then be brushed, sheared or hammered to create relief or geometric effects.

A striking variation, velvet jacquard is characterized by complex motifs that are neither printed nor embroidered but incorporated directly into the structure of the fabric. It is the result of an ingenious combination of velvet weaving and jacquard-making, introduced in the early 19^th century by the inventor Joseph-Marie Jacquard. Here, Maria Grazia Chiuri adorned it with a multitude of little flowers: a deconstructed, infinitely romantic design blending antique references with pure, ultra-modern lines. This unique creation was used on jackets, coats and ensembles, giving each look an added touch of grace and a singular aura.

For the artisans, the challenge is to produce a contemporary fabric using a very old method: a perilous leap through time guided by the art of detail the House cherishes. Made entirely of silk, this velvet jacquard is produced on Fifties-era looms measuring nearly five metres long. Their inner mechanism is constructed from 1,800 cones of thread that are assembled and installed by hand. A fabulous, hypnotic ballet then unfolds to produce the velvet warp-pile technique, with several rods and razors used in succession to cut the thread and create smooth or loop finishes.

Producing a fabric that is light, elegant and functional is a true feat of innovation. “This is the moment when you must know how to resist temptation, the pitfalls of a fabric that is so beautiful that its very beauty sometimes makes it almost unusable. And, imperceptibly, the elimination process takes place, the choice is made, and thinking about the fabrics, one begins to dream about the dresses,” Monsieur Dior confided in his book Talking About Fashion. A vision shared by Maria Grazia Chiuri, who once again manifested her desire to combine aesthetics and functionality. Poised at the intersection of yesterday, today and tomorrow, this reinterpreted, resolutely Dior velvet jacquard became the emblem of a new kind of fashion that expresses the ideals of a generation in search of freedom and emancipation. Fabric becomes a language.