Beautiful

gestures

Between Paris and Seville, the Avenue Montaigne and the Plaza de España, Maria Grazia Chiuri weaves a fascinating dialogue in the Dior cruise 2023 collection, blending the excellence of the House’s ateliers and traditional Andalusian savoir-faire. A joyous, vibrant ode to the plurality of art and culture, this osmosis expresses an idea of ultimate freedom. By Mathilda Panigada.

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Celebrating the many connections between savoir-faire all around the world. Taking a fresh look at traditions through a contemporary reading of heritage. For the Dior Cruise 2023 line, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose Seville as her new destination, a new source of inspiration(s). Fascinated by the creative richness of this multicultural city, the Creative Director of Dior women’s collections wished to recount the present in light of the past, through a passionate dialogue poised at the crossroads of specialized crafts, illuminating a unifying, universal idea of fashion. A study in memory, and a manifesto of modernity.

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As they emerged on the runway, silhouettes translated this creative profusion composed of influences, adventures, encounters, mastery and unbridled imagination. Like an enchanting common thread, embroidery unfurled endlessly, guided by the extreme virtuosity of Jesús Rosado. Working exclusively in gold and silver thread to embroider the fabrics used to adorn the Virgin Mary in religious processions – as well as vestments worn for ecclesiastical rites – the Sevillian artisan reveals the excellence of his atelier on a selection of exceptional pieces. Precious embellishments flourish over the Bar jacket – punctuated with Pankou buttons, an homage to Chinese culture – and the Lady Dior bag through the prism of three-dimensional embroidery evoking bas-reliefs.

With a heritage shaped by multiple journeys – from China to the Philippines, Spain and Latin America – the Manila shawl, conceived using a Chinese embroidery technique, demonstrates craftsmanship’s role as a global language, summing up the spirit of the collection. The savoir-faire behind this Andalusian emblem is perpetuated within the secrecy of the Ángeles Espinar’s workshop, thanks to the skills of three generations of women. For the Dior Cruise 2023 show, a series of shawls was specially handmade in collaboration with this atelier, combining traditional embroidery and Dior codes.

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©CRISTINA GÓMEZ RUIZ

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Inseparable from Andalusian equestrian arts, leather reveals precious finishes. For this Cruise collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with Javier Menacho Guisado to revisit Dior’s iconic bags using his prodigious techniques. The Saddle was clad in a flecked motif stitched along its edges and on the centre of its handles, while dots made using a belt stand in for the emblematic cannage on the Lady Dior. Equally meticulous and hypnotic, such craftsmanship is also revealed in an exalted conversation, initiated by Maria Grazia Chiuri, between Pietro Ruffo and the leatherworker Daniel López-Obrero Carmona. The Roman artist’s illustrations are displayed on panels of painted leather decorating a trunk designed to hold an Andalusian saddle and other equestrian accessories. Revisiting the centuries-old tradition of Córdoba leatherwork, the artisan’s remarkable dexterity also is showcased on several bags.

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©Video produced by Alba Sotorra Cinema Productions (@albasotorra)

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Exquisite details infused with modernity, accessories in turn bear the stamp of such ancestral savoir-faire. Once again drawing from the lexicon of horsemanship, hats by Fernández y Roche reinterpret two classic shapes, with a nod to Andalusian riding apparel. Made of felt or straw, these combined with boleros or richly embroidered short jackets with elaborate frogging, or sumptuous evening gowns with ethereal lace, finishing each outfit with a regal elegance.

Precious flashes of brilliance, illuminating a look with a singular aura, jewellery struck up a conversation between Sevillian heritage and that of the House. Perpetuating age-old techniques of metal ornamentation – essentially applied to parures dedicated to religious ceremonies – Orfebrería Ramos and the Creative Director imagined a complete line of jewellery inspired by the Rose de Granville, a tender homage to the founding couturier.

Cultivating a certain nonchalance as the ultimate form of elegance, the hand fans that punctuated outfits combined the beauty of the object with the delicacy of a gesture. A hybrid accessory, both decorative and performative, brought by the earliest sailors and adventurers coming from China to Spain, it has been anchored in the heart of Sevillian women’s attitudes for centuries. An icon whose history continues to be written, as it has for more than 200 years, in the intimacy of the Abanicos Carbonell ateliers in Valencia. For the Dior Cruise 2023 line, the House created several lace hand fans exalting Dior symbols through a fascinating interplay of relief and transparency, thus linking Iberian savoir-faire to the Venetian island of Burano and to Northern Europe.

An ode to shared passions and skills, the reflection of creative audacity with deep roots that remains ever in movement.

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©CRISTINA GÓMEZ RUIZ

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©ANGELA SUÁREZ

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