THE ATELIER OF
THE marvellous

Magnified by refined pleats, precious embroidery and subtle trompe-l’oeil, the Dior spring-summer 2025 haute couture silhouettes blurred the boundaries between dreams and reality. A moment suspended in time, and a fabulous showcase for exceptional craftsmanship. By Mathilda Panigada.

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© SOPHIE CARRE

From one era, one world, one femininity to the next, from the realm of the marvellous to the real world. In this new collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri explored fashion through the prism of its myriad metamorphoses, and the way in which those come to life in an almost magical narrative. The Creative Director invited guests to “the other side of the mirror”, an enchanted kingdom where time stands still and the rules of logic and convention become obscure. This couture odyssey unfurled in a series of detours and multiple influences – from the House’s heritage to contemporary myths – shaping a unique, ethereal universe.

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© Melinda Triana

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That dimension – illustrated with a monumental installation by Rithika Merchant that framed the show – highlights a constellation of skills that further enhance an aesthetic of in-between, where the absurd and the beautiful appear inextricably linked. This pluralistic excellence manifested magnificently in a series of revisited crinolines, retracing the history of costume. The starting point was the autumn-winter 1952-1953 haute couture collection designed by Christian Dior, and more specifically the La Cigale dress, whose original curves were transposed on several models. Conceived as veritable cabinets of curiosities, these pieces revealed a construction in bamboo – chosen for its robustness and flexibility – a feat by the artist and designer Laure Julien. A basketry specialist, she developed structures for Dior that are both resistant and incredibly delicate, to accompany the body in movement. Poised between sculpture and performance, each of these creations became a refuge for a fantasy world. Thanks to the infinite skill of Nathalie Seiller Dejean, whose practice is dedicated to the art of straw jewellery, crinolines were constellated with bees, snails and dragonflies in that raw and eminently poetic material; embellished with organza flowers or antique lace, they formed prodigious couture ecosystems. Works of art in their own right, looks tinged with surrealism appeared in various iterations, from short to exaggerated, echoing the idea of fashion’s never-ending mutation.  

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© SAHIBA SINGH

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© CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE

“Couturiers have such a beautiful role to play. They are the only ones who have the gift of transformation now that Cinderella’s fairy godmother has put down her wand.”

– Christian Dior

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© CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE

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© CHANAKYA SCHOOL OF CRAFT

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© Melinda Triana

That reflection was also illustrated through the use of crin, or horsehair, articulating the virtuoso drapery of a dress or appearing as ornamental flourishes. A hybrid material that lends itself to all manner of daring contrasts, it allowed for a clever play of transparencies, supporting the volume of a flared skirt that fell with grace and rigour below a corseted top. The ensemble was further elevated with refined bows, a nod to the embroidery adorning Monsieur Dior’s silhouettes from the 1950s. Celebrating the rare expertise of the Lebuisson atelier, each flower – made from small ribbons of horsehair – was finely decorated with satin, placed by hand, then studded with mounted roses and pearly beads with hypnotic reflections.

This plant world transformed the outfits into sumptuous couture gardens. A bucolic reverie turned reality thanks to the mastery in the Chanakya ateliers, which the House called upon to make the flowers in relief on an ensemble of dresses. Crafted at the intersection of embroidery and trim, each petal is made from floaty chiffon, punctuated with pearls or stones. After each of the corollas had been completed, they were affixed to the mesh of the corset to cascade down onto the crinoline, evoking the carefree joy of a stroll through open fields. A moment of grace that once again testified  to the artisans’ remarkable mastery of sewing in relief on fabric the 1,400 flowers that blossomed on each piece.

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© SOPHIE CARRE; MAISON LESAGE/19M

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© SOPHIE CARRE

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© CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE

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© Melinda Triana

The Pagliani atelier has made the art of trompe-l’oeil and illusion its specialty. For the Dior spring-summer 2025 haute couture show, the Italian company was invited to bring to life the organza feathers that adorned certain garments, transforming models into bird-like visions in an enchanted universe. Perpetuating 19th-century techniques, artisans formed the petals using ancient tools handed down from generation to generation, then painted them one by one to create depth and assembled them on the pattern. An exacting process that required time and precise, meticulous gestures to give the model its light, wonderfully natural effect.

In a marvellous convergence of excellence, embroiderers and finishers from the ateliers of Hurel, Jato, Lemarié, Lesage, Safrane, Vermont and Vermeulen displayed the richness of their talents and the precision of their craft, transforming each Dior look into a true couture masterpiece. An impassioned dialogue between specialized artisans, and an infinitely poetic tribute to couture that, more than ever, makes it possible to fulfil every desire.

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© Sophie Carre

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© NATHALIE SEILLER DEJEAN

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© Sophie Carre

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