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© LAURA SCIACOVELLI

Ancient
Grace

Poised between Antiquity and modernity, the silhouettes in the Dior Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 haute couture collection simultaneously tell a story of sports and of clothing. Two destinies united by the beauty of a body in motion and the necessary fusion of elegance and functionality. A return to the very essence of couture.

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© Raphaël Gaultier

Divine and marvellously contemporary, the Dior autumn-winter 2024-2025 haute couture models succeeded one another in a décor imbued with meaning and tinged with vivid colour. Mosaics by Faith Ringgold – originally commissioned for the Civic Center Subway Station in L.A., now revisited in embroidery by the Chanakya workshops and the Chanakya School of Craft – saw various representations of athletes paraded on the walls, while her most essential series Freedom Woman Now and Woman Free Yourself set the tone1. Infinitely engaged, this installation concentrated within itself a reflection Maria Grazia Chiuri has pursued season after season: the place of the female body in fashion and in society. A poetic invitation to (re)consider the links between physical performance and clothing, while exploring construction.

1Respectively (re)presented on the exterior façade of the installation and, on the interior, in the form of flags.

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© Adrien Dirand @faithringgold @acagalleries

The creations seemed to undulate to the rhythm of the models’ gait. Fringe, drapes and pleating were transformed into tank tops, dresses and pants, forming evanescent silhouettes inspired by goddesses of antiquity. A sportswear wardrobe – a tribute to athletes past and present – was reinvented through a couture lexicon: the ribbing on T-shirts was replaced by a delicate grosgrain ribbon; jersey was sublimated with silk or metallic threads in multiple shades of gold. Embroidery, the expression of virtuoso savoir-faire and absolute refinement, fully adorned original pieces such as irresistible sports shirts or bathrobes embellished with countless mirrors.

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© Adrien Dirand @faithringgold @acagalleries

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References to ancient culture were also found in the accessories. Shoes, for example, borrowed the traditional shape of gladiator sandals, enhanced with straps and laces that wrapped the leg from ankle to knee. Constellated with feathers or embroidery to elevate the look, these were sometimes magnified with sumptuously pearlescent baroque beads, which also appeared on cuffs, rings and earrings, with a nod to the iconic Dior Tribale. Flat sandals featured a couture jersey ribbon to match the dresses they punctuated. Conjuring an allure steeped in a hint of rebellion, double-wrap black leather belts were worn over monochrome white, accentuating the waist and producing subtle plays of contrast. A pluralistic image of free, powerful femininity.

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© Prarthna Singh © Chanakya School Of Craft

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© Adrien Dirand @faithringgold @acagalleries

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