For the Dior autumn-winter 2024-2025 women’s show, Maria Grazia Chiuri explored the vibrant Sixties, a powerful period of multiple transitions. A pivotal moment that the Creative Director approached through the prism of fashion history, which was intimately intertwined with that of women, for whom a new emancipation was taking shape.

The Miss Dior ready-to-wear line, conceived by Marc Bohan and entrusted to Philippe Guibourgé, reflected the House’s wish to respond to the desires of a new generation. Maria Grazia Chiuri paid homage to that iconic wardrobe, infused with the free-spirited optimism of the swinging Sixties. By turns textured or deconstructed, the essential trench coat opened the défilé, gradually metamorphosing into a skirt, suit or technical parka. Borrowed from men’s tailoring, enchanting wool cloth was reinterpreted in a selection of jackets, bombers and military coats, as well as in graphic check ensembles, which were revealed successively in a palette of neutral or colourful hues.

By turns A-line or pleated, mini or midi, pencil or wrap, skirts showed infinite versatility, composing assertive silhouettes with a hint of playfulness and impetuosity. That attitude was embodied by a number of looks with allover leopard print, elevating the feline elegance of micro-shorts, double-breasted overcoats and knit boleros. In a true statement, the “Miss Dior” logo ran through the collection in XXL versions, like an incisive slogan invoking the House’s cherished notion of transmission.

For this show-manifesto, the Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni unveiled an installation of nine sculptural suits of armour from her Of Bodies, Armour and Cages series, an exploration of the body’s connection to different spaces that highlighted the immeasurable significance of clothes and fashion.