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© PRARTHNA SINGH

SHAKUNTALA KULKARNI

The Indian artist imagined an installation of her enchanting rattan armour for the Dior autumn-winter 2024-2025 ready-to-wear show by Maria Grazia Chiuri. A poetic – not to mention political and sociological – examination of the power of the feminine. By Marie Épineuil.

Their fragility is their strength. Their strength is their fragility. At the heart of the set design for the Dior autumn-winter 2024-2025 ready-to-wear défilé, shimmering in golden light, the armatures appeared like strange, dreamlike suits of armour to clothe the body. Entitled Of Bodies, Armour and Cages, these creations were the brainchild of the Mumbai-based Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni*. Her “experimentation” began in 2010, by creating these structures herself and leaving them motionless in places where she had spent her childhood and where a certain way of life was disappearing. It was a way of expressing her role metaphorically as protector of tradition, history and culture.

*Born in Karnataka, India, in 1950.

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© Prarthna Singh

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© Prarthna Singh

Shakuntala Kulkarni was brought up in an open, free atmosphere: “My parents and grandparents were educated and forward-looking. We three sisters didn’t suffer any discrimination among our family and friends. Our parents encouraged us to take up sport, the arts and Indian classical dance. I tried my hand at the performing arts, especially intimate theatre, which I loved, as well as drawing and painting.” Over time, that privileged environment led to an awareness of the precarious status of women. “It was by listening to my friends and through my personal experiences that I began to observe how, because of constraints and discrimination, at different stages women experience frustration, discomfort, disempowerment… I wanted to examine how objectification can lead to atrocities and physical violence against women, provoking fear of moving freely in private and public spaces. It was necessary to respond to those concerns by expanding my artistic practice, choosing several mediums and disciplines, and conceiving interactive works.”

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© PRARTHNA SINGH

Thus was born the symbolism of cane armour, which was also the subject of a video, Juloos, produced in 2016, in which the artist appears as a warrior woman, and of which guests at the Dior show were able to admire excerpts printed on canvas. This examination and exploration of the female body and its relationship to multiple spaces found a perfect echo in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s work: “When I met her, I realized that we were on the same wavelength and had lots of things in common. Through my cane armour, I raised the question of protecting a woman’s body and, at the same time, imprisoning it,” Shakuntala Kulkarni explains. “I used cane, while Maria Grazia dresses women’s bodies in textiles. She speaks of the new woman, her community, her gaze. My women warriors stand up with power, freedom, dignity and respect. Maria Grazia conveys those values, too, through the marvellous silhouettes she brings to life.

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© Sophie Carre

D : Culture - Portrait - Shakuntala Kulkarni
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D : Culture - Portrait - Shakuntala Kulkarni
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©Melinda Triana

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