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© Laura Sciacovelli

Isabella’s aura

For the Dior spring-summer 2024 haute couture presentation, the Italian visual artist, writer and traveller Isabella Ducrot created Big Aura, an installation highlighting the poetic, philosophical power of textiles and excellence in craft. By Marie Épineuil.

This is a love story: that for the beauty of fabrics, which merges with an intimate interpersonal adventure. Of the fabrics brought back from her many travels, from Russia to the Far East, Isabella Ducrot has created more than just subjects for study and research ­– they are unique sources of inspiration. And, through her work, they have given rise to a meditation on the meaning of life. A passion born, originally, of a desire to preserve resources: “Throughout my childhood and youth, textiles were perpetually transformed, old sheets became towels, towels became dishcloths, silk curtains became ball gowns, and ball gowns were then shortened to become ordinary garments,” she explains. A rhythm comparable to that of the living world, in which bud becomes leaf, then fruit, which falls and seeds the earth for the next cycle.

A Neapolitan who has lived in Rome for several years and a lover of roses – a fascination close to Christian Dior’s heart – she explores the multiple facets of textile creation, the infinite richness of fabric, “that vehicle of dreams” in the words of the founding couturier.

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© Laura Sciacovelli

It was only natural that Maria Grazia Chiuri, a Roman as well, would initiate with her a privileged, wonderfully captivating dialogue for the staging of her Dior spring-summer 2024 haute couture collection, exploring couture’s uniqueness, its simultaneously contemplative, performative and aura-like essence. This virtuoso exchange evolved into a monumental installation: Big Aura, composed of twenty-three dresses, each approximately five metres high, with dimensions deliberately disproportionate to a human body. It was the materialization of a concept Isabella Ducrot has always carried with her: the aesthetic value of excess. “An aura is perhaps a privilege that manifests itself in forms that are not necessarily obvious. Certain objects, certain people, certain situations are traversed by an aura to occupy superfluous extra space, their futile character transformed into power, grandeur, BIG.”

“Big” was her initial impression upon admiring the proportions of ceremonial attire worn by sultans of the Ottoman Empire at the Topkapi Palace Museum in Istanbul. “I was struck by their size. They were disproportionate (...) with the aim of magnifying and reflecting the immense power of the sultans, (...) without need for adding brocade, pearls or precious stones: there was just these excessive, exaggerated dimensions.”

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© Laura Sciacovelli

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© Laura Sciacovelli

The dresses she selected for the show’s décor were presented on a support made up of grid-like black lines on a white ground, the artist’s signature motif. Produced by the Chanakya workshops and the Chanakya School of Craft, this scenography brought exceptional textiles back to life thanks to antique looms that were specially reassembled for the occasion. An aura, in all its resonant power.

“My creative work goes hand in hand with the exploration of new uses for fabric. Its aesthetic qualities continue to inspire me, as does its historical importance in human civilization.”*

*From a speech Isabella Ducrot gave for the closing of the academic year at the Institute of Philosophical Studies – Faculty of Women’s History – Naples, 2002.

Culture - Portrait - Isabella Ducrot
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Culture - Portrait - Isabella Ducrot
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© Melinda Triana

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