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Irresistibly Dior, the women’s ready-to-wear looks for autumn-winter 2023-2024 restyle the House’s heritage as an invitation to self-affirmation. The singular expression of a pluralistic, free-spirited femininity that blends past and future.

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“Non, rien de rien / Non, je ne regrette rien.” Édith Piaf’s enchanting, iconic lyrics^* punctuated the Dior autumn-winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear show by Maria Grazia Chiuri, a contemporary ode to fashion and 1950s Paris, unveiled in the heart of the French capital.

One by one, the mannequins set forth into a décor transformed into a brand-new world by Joana Vasconcelos. The organic, almost tentacled contours of her immense installation entitled Valkyrie Miss Dior wove a captivating dialogue in textiles between the multiple facets of femininity. Consisting notably of lace and embroidery, this freestyle exercise – so all-encompassing it seemed difficult to escape – was also an invitation to broaden the field of possibilities. The techniques the Portuguese artist explored – typically feminine crafts of sewing, knitting, crochet – contrasted with the monumental character of the work she designed especially for Dior.

* By Michel Vaucaire / Charles Dumont © S.E.M.I, Paris (France).

The silhouettes revealed reinvented elegance. “Corolla” dresses and skirts – emblems of the iconic New Look – featured floral prints with chiné motifs, a tribute to the Dior archives, while an audacious variation was embellished with a thousand flowers in leather. While the depth and spectrum of black predominated, outfits also bore perennial House codes of leopard or houndstooth, as well as crinkled fabrics made of metallic threads that wrapped around the body. Subtly revisited primary colours – ruby, emerald, topaz – took centre stage in a reinterpretation of Dior style that included a virtuoso take on the Miss Dior dress, so called after Christian Dior’s affectionate nickname for his sister Catherine, one of the inspirational figures for the Creative Director.

Exquisite finishing touches, such as poetic flower crowns in gilded raffia or an elaborate breastplate intricately wrought like ravishing ornamental armour, gave further contour to the Amazon in all her strength and fragility. Imbued with the kaleidoscopic image of fascinating icons from Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco to the extraordinary Catherine, this collection suggests emotional pathways for the new generations of women who are shaping tomorrow’s world.

A celebration of Dior’s history, infused with infinite modernity and a passion for the future.

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