| “Non, rien de rien / Non, je ne regrette rien.” Édith Piaf’s enchanting, iconic lyrics* punctuated the Dior autumn-winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear show by Maria Grazia Chiuri, a contemporary ode to fashion and 1950s Paris, unveiled in the heart of the French capital.
One by one, the mannequins set forth into a décor transformed into a brand-new world by Joana Vasconcelos. The organic, almost tentacled contours of her immense installation entitled Valkyrie Miss Dior wove a captivating dialogue in textiles between the multiple facets of femininity. Consisting notably of lace and embroidery, this freestyle exercise – so all-encompassing it seemed difficult to escape – was also an invitation to broaden the field of possibilities. The techniques the Portuguese artist explored – typically feminine crafts of sewing, knitting, crochet – contrasted with the monumental character of the work she designed especially for Dior. | * By Michel Vaucaire / Charles Dumont © S.E.M.I, Paris (France). |
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